Day 14 - April 8th 2011 - Shimla

Shimla is in Himachal Pradesh and known as the Queen of hill stations. It derives its name from "Goddess Shyamla", who is supposed to be an avatar of Goddess Kali. This lovely hill station was 'discovered' by the British who immediately fell in love with this place. Infact, they went to the extent of declaring Shimla as their summer capital.
It sits at the foot of snow-clad Himalayan ranges, surrounded by lakes and lush green pastures. The unique thing about Shimla is that it still retains its colonial charm and this creates an ambience that is not found anywhere else in India. The climate is very similar to the UK which is why the British chose to settle here during British Rule.  Many of the buildings are in a British style and there's still evidence of the the influence we had on lifestyle there.
Our hotel is one of the best we've stayed at - Clarks. There is no direct access by car to the hotel. So as we climb the steep steps to the hotel Luggage Wallas are hailed to carry our cases. Carrying 2 or 3 cases on their heads they almost sprint up the steps - they're so fit!!
We have a suite of rooms, interlinked with a sitting room inbetween - perfect!
Hen is still feeling a little under the weather so Kate & I decide to eat in our rooms to keep her company.  We have internet access - yippee! So we catch up on emails as we enjoy a wonderful supper in our dressing gowns.....and hope Hen will be feeling on better form tomorrow.

Clarks Hotel, Shimla

Day 14 - Friday 8th April 2011- Dharamsala to Shimla

Written by Kate.....How are you today? This morning we left Dharamsala, which despite the ridiculous long journey was the most intriguing place I have ever been. I don't know if you know much about the place, I had never heard of it. Geographically, it is next to the Himalayan mountains, which separates it from Tibet. I'm not too sure on my timings but China had invaded Tibet to try to make it their own and after continually dismissing a peace agreement they had with the Tibetans, eventually, The Dalai Lama, AKA His Holiness, was forced out of his own country, Tibet, or face being captured by the Chinese and going 'missing'. So he escaped and started on a treacherous walk over the Himalayas. He arrived, frost bitten and malnourished, with a few companions  in Dharamsala, where some sparse country folk offered shelter. The Dalai Lama was invited to stay and Tibetan monks in exile soon followed to this place they now called Dharamsala, which, if I'm not mistaken, literally means peace and shelter. In all this commotion, the next in line to the Dalai Lama, at the time aged 6, went missing, taken by the Chinese. No one has seen him since. He should be 22 now. 

History lesson over! Bearing all that in mind though, it does help understand why the area is very peaceful and there is a sense of compassion throughout. Whereas before, in other parts of India we have been hassled, sometimes jeered at, here we were much more accepted. There are a lot more travellers from all over and it helps having the ever calming presence of the monks sweeping thought the streets, made known by their saffron and burgundy robes. 

We got there on Wednesday and I have to say at that point I had totally lost my personality, but after a good rest, I awoke on Thursday raring to go. So after some sightseeing, Mum, Hen and I hit the shops, or should I say stalls. Guess what... Yours truly remembered how to shop! I spent  so much but, my God, I got so much. A fur hat, suede poncho, woollen poncho (which was a shawl but the taylor made it into a poncho for me for 40 rupees! That's so little money it's not even worth converting!!) 2 dresses, presents for Simon, presents for Roomie, presents for Sean, presents for Lily, my brother, Claire, more stuff for me, and a ring that I cannot stop looking at. I LOVE IT!

But it wasn't all superficial shopping, we went on a candle lit walk in remembrance of a young monk who had set himself alight in protest towards the Chinese. We also gave some food to a poor hungry child who offered to fix Hens shoes, saying that if he didn't do a good job, we could beat him (which I imagine the man with a scar from his temple to the corned of his right eye, lurking not to far from him did regularly). We went out after supper, after ordering way to much and making a rubbish attempt in finishing, wrapped up our food and took it out to one seriously disabled guy living on the streets. We wanted to find more people but there is only so far 3 clear foreigners can safely go. 

Mood repot: Hen (understandably) is not over the moon a out the 7hr journey ahead on a good day. So just to make it worse, she woke up in the night with a horrible tummy bug - poor sausage. Picture this: you can't stop being sick and you have to embark on a long ass journey being driven by Nigel Mansel, in a culture where over, over taking is acceptable... On a corner, hair pin turns, bumpy roads, hot.... That's where Hen is right now :s Long. For. Her. Mums as happy as always. Still losing her marbles but aren't we all!? Lol. And me? Happy, calm, worried about Wired, worried about how much work I've missed, but determined to soak up the little bit left of this incredible journey.

So now we are off to Shimla; winding up tiny roads and peering down the mountain side, popping my ears from time to time as we climb higher and higher and the views get sicker and sicker. Shilma is where all the British settled and built their homes so it should be a little home before home! 

Namaste y'all! 
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Day 13 - April 7th 2011 - Visit to The Tibetan Monastery & Temple, McLeod Ganj

Beside myself with excitement and an emotional wreck we head for the Tibetan Monastery.  I gaze at His Holiness's residence, willing him to appear but I have to make do with the over whelming feeling of being so close to his simple home (the green roofed building).

From here we went to the two Temples, adjacent to the monastery.  Passing the prayer wheels before we entered....

Oooommmmmm Ooooommmmmmmm Ooooommmmmmm

Day 13 - April 7th 2011 - Visit to St John in the Wilderness Church

A slightly later start than I have become accustomed too but I wake up early to the sun rising over the mountains and the gentle sound of Hindus, Tibetans, Buddhist Monks and stall holders in the street below.  The Tibetans wear their traditional costumes and of course the monks are wearing their simple saffron and burgundy robes. the Hindu women in their now familiar, brightly coloured saris....

After my now usual Indian breakfast in the hotel - this morning it's Dhal, rice and chapatis (did I mention that I've eaten Indian food for every meal since I arrived) we head off in the car to St John in The Wilderness Church which lies in the forest between Mcleod Ganj and Forsyth Ganj. It has a monument dedicated to Lord Elgin, one of the viceroys of India.  He was buried here in 1863 A.D. The Church has lovely spotted glass windows and there is a Christian cemetery around it.

Although the church structure survived the 1905 Kangra earthquake which killed 19,800 people, injured thousands in the Kangra area, and destroyed most buildings in Kangra, McLeod Ganj and Dharamsala, its spire, and Bell Tower were destroyed. Later, a new bell, built in 1915 by Mears and Stainbank, was brought from England and installed outside in the grounds of the church.

Day 12 - Wednesday 6th April 2011- On to Dharamsala/McLeod Ganj

A very special part of the trip for me was always to visit this beautifully spiritual town.

Often referred to as “”Little Lhasa,” the beautiful town of McLeodganj, a suburb of Dharamsala, lies at the foothills of the Himalayas in Himachal Pradesh state of India. Nestled among the Dhaluadhars mountains this small town is well known world wide for its scenic beautyand spirituality.

During British rule, McLeod Ganj was a place where wives and daughters of British officers and government officials spent hot Indian summers as the climate is very similar to the UK.

In 1959 after the Chinese invasion to Tibet, the 14th Dalai Lama, Tenzin Gyatsho fled from Tibet to India and was offered the former hill station, now known as McLeod Ganj, as a place of residence of the Tibetan exile government.

With the Dalai Lama came thousands of Tibetan refugees, who gradually settled in McLeod Ganj. During the last three decades, The Tibetans have built many religious, educational and cultural institutions in and around McLeod Ganj, which has helped in preservation of their culture. This has been a keen area of interest for the people around the world and as a result they flock at Dharamsala at various times.

We arrived after a long, sometimes scary drive - the roads are narrow and winding, climbing ever higher but the breath taking scenary makes it all worth while......

We couldn't wait to get out into the town.  The Tibetan culture is immediately obvious.  The atmosphere totally different to the other places we've visited. No hassling from street traders - the Tibetans are a quiet, humble race - eager to please and so very gentle.  The Buddhist Monks wander frequently through the streets, most of them clutching their mobile phones as well as their Prayer Beads. We stumbled across a Temple in the main street - I couldn't wait to explore....

The photos don't show how enormous the Buddha statue was - 12ft or more I should think....

As we enjoyed the friendly ambiance in the town we came across a group of people giving out candles in preparation for a  pilgrimage to the Temple in remembrance of Phuntsog, a young Tibetan monk who immolated himself in Amdo province in Tibet in protest to Chinese oppression.  We joined the group, trying desperately to keep our candles alight in the breeze, chanting  as we went on our way to the Temple - it was very moving.....

....and so to bed.  Tomorrow is a very special day - visiting the Temple, monastary and museum.  The Dalai Lama is in residence and having a much needed rest so I'm unlikely to see him but to be so close to him feels incredibly moving - I feel blessed.

It's much colder here and high on tomorrow's shopping list are socks, scarves and warm wraps...feeling peaceful - Namaste x

Day 11 - Tuesday 5th April 2011 - Wagah Border, Changing Guard Ceremony then Palki Ceremony at The Golden Temple

The Changing of The Guard Ceremony at Wagah Border is a slightly silly yet enjoyable daily border display between India’s Border Security Forces and the Pakistani Rangers. 

The 45 minute choreographed ceremony, which officially closes the border each evening between the two countries, has been enacted daily since 1959. Dressed in elaborate turbans topped with huge fans, complicated uniforms and shiny black boots the soldiers from the two nations high-kick towards each other.  Apparently all the soldiers are 7ft and over.  They're also extremely handsome and obviously enjoy the attention from their audience (us included)!!

Later that evening we went to The Golden Temple to watch the Palki Ceremony.  This unmissable ceremony of ‘Palki Sahib’ takes place each evening,  The Holy Granth (book) of the Sikhs is taken in a Golden Palanquin to it’s nightly abode, amidst the chanting of hymns, cattle drums and ‘nagaras’ (trumpets).

Later… Day 12 - Wednesday 6th April 2011

Perhaps our Guide, Shaju, knows how to cheer a girl up as the next stop was the local Bazaar….off we went on, not by car, coach, train or Tuk-Tuk but by rickshaw!! A trifle scary at times, especially on the round-a-bouts but we arrived clutching our purses and desperate to spend out rupees..... However, 45 minutes is not enough time to get into the swing so with a free evening ahead, we went back to do some ‘SERIOUS SHOPPING’!!  Having done a crash course earlier, we were ruthless when bartering and paid ridiculous prices for some of our swagger!  Such fun!!

Someone else doing a little shopping……

The Golden Temple Amritsar

The Golden Temple Amritsar, a set on Flickr.