Wednesday, 13 April 2011

Day 12 - Wednesday 6th April 2011 - Visit to Jallian Wala Bagh

"The incident in Jallian Wala Bagh was 'an extraordinary event, a monstrous event, an event which stands in singular and sinister isolation"...Winston Churchill

We all felt quite uncomfortable here…….a few months after the end of the first world war an Englishwoman, a missionary, reported that she had been molested on a street in the Punjab city of Amritsar. The Raj's local commander, Brigadier General Reginald Dyer, issued an order requiring all Indians using that street to crawl its length on their hands and knees. He also authorized the indiscriminate, public whipping of natives who came close to British policemen.
On April 13, 1919, a multitude of Punjabis gathered in Amritsar's Jallian wala Bagh as part of the Sikh Festival "Baisakhi fair" and to protest at these extraordinary measures. The throng, penned in a narrow space smaller than Trafalgar Square, had been peacefully listening to the testimony of victims when Dyer appeared at the head of a contingent of British troops. Giving no word of warning, he ordered 50 soldiers to fire into the gathering, and for 10 to 15 minutes 1,650 rounds of ammunition were unloaded into the screaming, terrified crowd, some of whom were trampled by those desperately trying to escape.
Luckily there was no animosity towards us - one Hindu woman came up to me and said in broken English “ We are friends now” and asked to have her photo taken with me….there was a lot of love in this tragic place.









Day 12 - Wednesday 6th April 2011 - Early Morning Visit to The Golden Temple

The Golden Temple is the central place of worship for all Sikhs in the world. It is known as the Golden Temple because of its unique features. It is constructed of white marble overlaid with gold leaf and stands in the centre of a pool of fresh, clear, reflective water which is fed by the Ganges River. Pilgrims bathe in the sacred waters of the tank which is known for its healing properties. Visitors gather to worship, listen to hymns, and hear the scripture of the Guru Granth read, inside the Temple. It has four entrances, one on each side, which are a symbolic welcome to all persons regardless of caste, class, colour, or creed.

A free sanctified meal is prepared daily and served at the temple. It is available to the tens of thousands pilgrims who visit. All cooking of food and maintenance of the golden temple complex is carried out by worshipers, who volunteer their services. All cost is provided for by donations.  Thousands of pilgrims eat here each day.





Day 11 - Tuesday 5th April 2011 - Delhi to Amritsar on The Shatabdi Express

Highlight of the journey for the girls - a plug next to the seat to charge various gadgets!!  I think we are in the ‘posh’ carriage - no sitting on the roof for me or hanging precariously from the door for me - comfy, spacious seats, pull out tray, pot of tea to start the journey.  Followed by more tea and Indian sweets, followed by a hot lunch of samosas, pakoras and Masala Chai - what more could a girl want? OK the loos on board are a bit of an experience but hey, we’re in India and armed with our loo roll, hand wipes and hygiene sprays we beginning to think we can conquer the world!  At least we’re not doing battle with kamikaze style drivers and holes in the road that make me think I’ll never complain about pot holes in our roads again J


We arrive in Amritsar feeling quite refreshed.  The station is literally heaving with travellers, the noise, the  bustle and excitement at times frightening…..thank you to Shaju who smoothly and calmly ushers us along.  Porters appear and pile our cases on their heads and take them to waiting cars and drivers.





And so we meet Santos who will be our driver for the next 6 days, a young chap from Dharamsala who speaks very little English but with whom we will inevitably form a close bond - scuse the pun won’t you?

We head for the next hotel - Hotel Svaasa, stuck in the colonial days, a haven in the centre of Amritsar. I feel as if I’m staying with and elderly well-to-do Great Aunt who has packed her mansion with objet D’Arts over the years, it even smells a little musty to add to the atmosphere (nothing that a little Nag Champa can’t disguise though)  What a pity we’re only here for one night - Hey-Ho…







Day 10 - Monday 4th April 2011 - Visit to Jantar Mantar (The Observatory)

The observatory consists of fourteen major geometric devices for measuring time, predicting eclipses, tracking stars' location as the earth orbits around the sun, ascertaining the declinations of planets, and determining the celestial altitudes and related ephemerides. Each is a fixed and 'focused' tool. The Samrat Yantra, the largest instrument, is 90 feet (27 m) high, its shadow carefully plotted to tell the time of day. Its face is angled at 27 degrees, the latitude of Jaipur. The Hindu chhatri (small cupola) on top is used as a platform for announcing eclipses and the arrival of monsoons.
Built from local stone and marble, each instrument carries an astronomical scale, generally marked on the marble inner lining. Bronze tablets, all extraordinarily accurate, were also employed. Thoroughly restored in 1901, the Jantar Mantar was declared a national monument in 1948.






Then a long journey by road on the coach back to Delhi - very bumpy and at times we wonder if we will ever make it, so dangerous is the driving.  Of course, the journeys are broken with ‘Loo Stops’ which I will spare you the details of…..

We opt out of the tour of Delhi favouring a hot shower and a glass of something by the pool…….knowing that we have a long train journey early in the morning....

Day 9 - Sunday 3rd April - Mothers’ Day Jaipur


A free day and much appreciated after a hectic schedule.  The girls had a twinkle in their eye and I suspected they had Mother’s Day Plans.

We spent the day by the pool enjoying the sun shine but at 4 o’clock I was whisked off the The Spa for a full body Ayurvedic massage - my skin felt amazing afterwards!!  Then I had strict instructions to be ready by 8pm - Dress Code - formal.
A driver collected us and we soon arrived at Ramburgh Palace - the most spectacular place - the sort of place you just know you’re going to be totally pampered and the food is going to be divine!  We were not disappointed - how spoilt was I??!!



Day 8 - Saturday - April 2nd 2011 - The Pink City, Jaipur

Last night we had supper in the hotel - FABULOUS! Then onto the outdoor Bar on the Top Floor. A colourful dimly lit bar, with super lighting and western music and a stunning view over Jaipur.  The girls had met a group of girls from Jaipur and their husbands so had stayed up much later than me so it was only me heading for the The Pink City early next morning.

Elephants were the transport of the day so I climbed on board my trusty friend and off we went up the steep climb.  The Maharani revelling in the stunning views on this majestic, enormous and somewhat pre-historic creature.


From there we went on to a Bazaar - for 45mins??!! Enough for a bit of window shopping but hey, you can tell when a man is in charge of the itinery!!  Not to worry, good to know where to come to shop, shop, shop with the girls later on…….which we duly did.  Jewellery, shoes, bags, dresses, tops, harem pants - you name it, we bought it!

Back to the hotel with our goodies and much aware of the exciting atmosphere in Jaipur and the hotel.  It was Sri Lanka vs India in the cricket final.  We ate in the hotel restaurant again and in contrast to the formal atmosphere the previous night, the waiters were jolly and friendly.  There was a TV in the dining room (looking slightly out of place) but all the diners were glued to the match and staff (obviously given permission to watch) lined up at the back of the restaurant to catch a glimpse of the ever nearing victory.



We headed up the Roof Top after supper - the place was packed - all glued to the TV and then, VICTORY! Cheers, dancing, fireworks, singing - brilliant atmosphere - we felt lucky to have been part of it.

The girls joined their new friends once again and went to an exclusive club, driven back by their driver in the early hours…..

Saturday, 9 April 2011

April 1st 2011 - Day 7 - Ranthambore to Jaipur

From Kate....
Mum, Hen and I have been in India for 6 days now. Mum set up this blog thingy so as I bump along this road that makes our pot holes look like a joke, I thought I'd kill two birds with one stone; keep the old dear happy with an entry for the blog and and pass a bit of time, all the while trying not to kill this bird as I fly about the coach, breaking my iPad and narrowly miss splitting my head on the fan perfectly placed above me for such things. And this is the thing I have to remind myself as I stir in a grumpy Bond - like manner from my Bond  - like nap, I'm lucky to have (among many things) my Mum and sister with me, an iPad, an air conditioned coach, and a bloody fan to even split my head open on!

Hindu people here live life in order to find Nirvana, to awaken your spirit. Now don't get me wrong and don't worry I haven't lost my mind, and you won't find me dancing around barefoot with saggy breasted hippies, but if there is a place to re find the balance in your life surely this is it.

And with that as we pull up to wait for a train to pass and we hand out the rank packed lunch we were given to children slightly older than my beloved niece. Their hair riddled with lice, teeth surprisingly even there..... And the revolting matching out fit, Beckham wanna be, Yorkshire couple, Clippy (named so because of her naff hair clip) and Gayer (because deep down he's gay) sitting in front of us video it like it's some sort of show. I'll tell you more about Clippy and her 'Mother Theresa gone wrong' video later....

For now, on to Jaipur where I have no doubt the colours, music and excitement of it all will blow my mind.

Namaste - I bow to the light with in you.... I had beans on toast for breakfast :) x

Pilgimage to India

The Golden TempleAgra FortRanthambore National ParkRanthambore TigersJaipur PalaceAmber fortress
His Holiness The-Dalai-LamaOmIndian musicans091Taj Mahal
TajThe Golden Temple083AgraOur JourneyTaj-Mahal
Journey from Dehli To AgraJourney from Dehli To AgraJourney from Dehli To AgraJourney from Dehli To AgraJourney from Dehli To AgraJourney from Dehli To Agra

Pilgimage to India, a set on Flickr.

The Journey from Delhi to Agra